Nouakchott to St Louis via Rosso

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Nouakchott is the capital city of Mauritania in North Africa.  Nouakchott offers the following points of interest for tourists and photographers;

  • Saudi mosque
  • Fish market
  • Olympic stadium
  • Capital market
  • Nouakchott beach

Saudi Mosque in NouakchottSaudi Mosque in Nouakchott

I stayed in Nouakchott 2 nights at an apartment for about €20 per night, it was right next to the Hotel Tfeila.  Most other hotels seemed to be at least double the price.  I visited the Saudi Mosque (above).

Olympic Stadium, Nouakchott, Mauritania

Olympic Stadium, Nouakchott, Mauritania

I walked to the Olympic stadium, I read you could go inside the stadium, but unfortunately it was closed up when I visited.  I do recommend taking the risk that it could be open when you go.  This is where Mauritania play there African football games and you could make some cool pictures of the empty stadium.

The presidential palace is heavily guarded so don’t waste your time looking for it.

Minivan - Nouakchott to Rosso, Senegal border - 2500 OuguiyasMinivan – Nouakchott to Rosso, Senegal border – 2500 Ouguiyas

The minivan to Rosso leaves from Carrefour Madrid, you can say this to the taxi driver and tell him Taxi a Rosso, he should know where to take you, if not get another taxi.  I went at 7am and there were plenty of people to fill up several minivans.  The service to Rosso is 2500 ouguiyas.  Once at Rosso, get off at the last stop and you will probably be followed by hecklers wanting to help you get through the border.  I did need a copy of my visa page to give to an official at the police station.  Do not let any hecklers carry your bag, but do slyly use them as they know the points you have to visit to get your stamp out of the country.  You don’t have to pay anyone anything and the heckler who hasn’t let you out of their site probably just wants a small tip or to change your money.

Ferry over the Senegal River in Rosso - FreeFerry over the Senegal River in Rosso – Free

There are ferries constantly crossing the river over to the Senegalese side of Rosso, this is a free service for foot passengers.  Police greet the ferry in Senegal, they take your passport and you go straight ahead to the police station and wait for a stamp.  You don’t need a visa to enter Senegal and the stamp is free.  People will lie to you and say it is illegal to take money through customs in Senegal, I changed my leftover ouguiyas, about 20 euros worth, which is more than enough to get to St Louis or Dakar, where you will find ATM machines.  The police didn’t ask, or look for, euros / dollars, so it is fine to take these through.  You do get a better rate for ouguiyas at the border though, I changed mine at 6000 ouguiyas for 10000 Francs, which is actually better than the XE exchange rate.  Check the rate before coming to the border so the money changers don’t take advantage, because they will try.  I then took a bike to the bus station which I agreed to be 300 francs, but during the ride he talked it up to 500 for the baggage.

Share taxi from Rosso to St Louis - 2000 francs + 1000 for baggageShare taxi from Rosso to St Louis – 2000 francs + 1000 for baggage

The share taxi was 2000 francs, and an extra 1000 francs for my luggage.  It was a Peugeot 505 estate from the 1980s, no air conditioning, the doors and windows didn’t work properly, none of the gauges worked, it wouldn’t start in first gear.  But it made it to St Louis in just over 2 hours.

St Louis to Dakar

2017-03-13T15:09:42+00:00 October 6th, 2016|Mauritania, Western Africa|9 Comments

9 Comments

  1. Jean February 15, 2017 at 3:03 am - Reply

    Looks like you had an interesting time trying to haggle for transport. How was your 20 Euro/night room? The Saudi Mosque looks wonderful. Such a shame the Olympic Stadium was closed.

  2. Ling February 15, 2017 at 8:30 am - Reply

    Sounds like you had an interesting time going from Nouakchott to St. Louis. I wonder why the Olympic Stadium doesn’t have a set schedule of when it’s open? It’s a bit confusing for visitors hoping to see an Olympic venue. Getting transportation looks pretty adventurous. Those cars look pretty worn down.

  3. Ivy February 15, 2017 at 5:10 pm - Reply

    This is the first time I’ve read a post on North Africa. What an interesting journey you had- they really load up on the shared vans eh? Good to know about the hecklers. And €20 per night for an apartment sounds like an absolute steal!

  4. Diana - MVMT Blog February 15, 2017 at 6:15 pm - Reply

    I’ve got to admit I have never heard of Nouakchott and did not know there is an Olympic stadium there. Great tips about the hecklers – that’s something I could see myself being confused about since I’m not used to dealing with that. And that’s nice that the ferry over the Senegal river is free. Ferries like this that I’ve been on typically charge a lot just because they can!

  5. Julianne February 15, 2017 at 7:01 pm - Reply

    I haven’t traveled to this region of the world yet, so it was really enlightening to hear your perspective on traveling from Nouakchott to St Louis. I recently learned that Mauritanian athletes have not competed in any Winter Olympic Games, but I didn’t know that there was an Olympic stadium in the country! That’s too bad that it was closed when you were there. Great tips about the hecklers and exchanging currency, and I’m also glad to know that the ferry is free! Reminds me a bit of the Staten Island ferry in NYC being free as well.

  6. Caroline @ The Travelling Sloth February 15, 2017 at 7:14 pm - Reply

    Great tip about checking the exchange rate online. I find hecklers are border crossing can be a little aggressive but by the sounds of it, they weren’t too much trouble… It’s a little surprising that they would lie to you about taking money through customs but I suppose that’s a way for them to take your leftovers?

    Really interesting insight! I haven’t met anyone who has been to Mauritania or land crossed into Senegal for that matter.

  7. Katie February 15, 2017 at 10:01 pm - Reply

    I have actually never heard of Nouakchott but it looks awesome! Would love to visit the stadium and the Saudi Mosque – both look great! A cheap place to stay too! 🙂

  8. Janine Good February 15, 2017 at 11:20 pm - Reply

    This is really neat. I had no idea there would be an Olympic Stadium in Mauritania. It looks quite fascinating. I love seeing sports stadiums in different countries as they have such character. I never would have thought to go to Nouakchott, but this looks very interesting to me now.

  9. Bhushavali February 16, 2017 at 9:42 am - Reply

    That’s a very interesting read! Totally helpful for whoever plans to cross Senegal border! 1980s Peugot? That’s a vintage car indeed!!! The Saudi mosque looks neat!!!

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