I landed in San José feeling the usual thrill of a first-time Costa Rica visitor.  My backpack bulged with hiking stuff, my camera stood ready to snap the green rainforests, and my guidebook showed worn corners on pages about secret waterfalls and quiet beaches.

The day began just right – I sipped strong Costa Rican coffee at a tiny café in Barrio Amón where old-style buildings framed my breakfast view.  I chose to walk around the city before heading to Manuel Antonio National Park the next day.

False Sense of Security

San José buzzed with life as I roamed the Central Market snapping photos of vibrant fruits and veggies and having a chat with welcoming sellers.  I felt at ease so much so that I didn’t even realize I’d slipped my phone into my back pocket instead of my safe travel bag.

The packed Avenida Central looked like any crowded shopping road you’d find anywhere.  I stood there impressed by a showcase of handmade jewelry when someone nudged me – just a normal bump you’d expect in a busy market.  It wasn’t until about twenty minutes later when I went to grab my phone to take a picture of an eye-catching mural, that I discovered it had vanished.

Getting Robbed in Costa Rica

Getting Robbed in Costa Rica

Fear gripped me.  I worried about the phone, but also the pictures I hadn’t saved, the travel apps with my schedule and my digital plane tickets.

A shopkeeper nearby saw I was upset and came over. “Tourist?” he asked with sympathy.  I told him what happened and he nodded like he’d heard it before. “It’s common.  The markets look great but thieves love them.  Always keep important stuff here,” he said touching his front pocket.

Police Report

At the police station, I made a report along with three other tourists who had similar tales.  A cop explained that Costa Rica is safe, but you need to watch out in some places. “Most crime here takes advantage of chances,” he said. “It’s not violent just… taking advantage.”

Unplanned events taught me more about travel than any guidebook could.  I learned to pack light, stay in the moment instead of looking at my phone and talk to locals who gave real tips about getting around their country.

Moving on From San Jose to Monteverde

Moving on From San Jose to Monteverde

After spending three days checking out San José with my new throwaway camera, I hopped on a bus to Monteverde Cloud Forest.  As we drove up twisty mountain roads, we climbed into foggy heights where the air turned cool and the plants looked like something from another world.

I stayed at an eco-lodge right on the edge of the forest.  From its wooden deck, you could see Arenal Volcano far away when the sky was clear.  On my first day, I hiked through the reserve.  I walked across swaying bridges high up in the cloud forest canopy and caught glimpses of shiny quetzal birds darting between the trees.

Night Walk in Monteverde

On the next day, I joined a nighttime walk with a few fellow travelers I’d met during breakfast.  Our guide Carlos, had sharp eyes that could find resting birds and hidden bugs in the dark that looked too thick for us to see through.

“Put all your expensive stuff in your room safe,” Carlos told us as we met up when it got dark. “bring what you need for tonight.”

I followed his suggestion taking only my room key and a little cash zipped into my jacket pocket.  The night forest showed its wonders as we walked paths lit by our guide’s flashlight – sloths sleeping in balls, tarantulas coming out of hidden holes, and the eerie light of glowing fungi.

Return to the Lodge and Second Robbery

Return to the Lodge and Second Robbery

We got back to the lodge around 10 PM thrilled by what we’d seen.  I spotted my door open.  My heart dropped before I even pushed it.  The small backpack I’d left – with my passport, credit cards and the rest of my exchanged cash – was missing.

The lodge manager acted fast phoning the police and assisting me in recording the stolen items. “We don’t see much trouble here,” he said upset. “Someone saw the night hike groups go out and figured the rooms would be empty.”

This time, the theft felt different from the first.  I felt dumb and singled out.  But as I sat with the lodge manager sipping hot chocolate and waiting for the cops, he told me about growing up in this mountain town – how tourism had changed their economy but brought new problems too.

Good Memories Despite the Robbery

“Most folks here rely on visitors taking home good memories,” he said. “When stuff like this happens, it hurts everyone.”

The lodge staff gathered to help me the following morning.  The front desk clerk assisted me in reaching out to my embassy.  The cook prepared extra food for my trip to the consulate in San José.  A maintenance employee who carved wood as a side job even gave me a small handmade quetzal bird figurine.

“This way you’ll remember the true Monteverde,” he said .

Two robberies could have spoiled another traveler’s trip, but they ended up shaping a unique travel tale.  I learned that when you lose your stuff, you’re left with just your experiences – and no one can take those away.  The group meals I enjoyed with other travelers, the generous locals who wanted nothing back, the quiet wonder of being in a cloud forest as fog clears to show a volcano far off – these became my real Costa Rican keepsakes.

At times, the most precious travel moments come looking like bad luck showing us how to spot good things in the surprising twists of our travels.

Next, the best beaches in Costa Rica.